OXMAN unveils 100% biodegradable O° Shoe

A wall of shoe prototypes designed at the OXMAN lab over the course of a year. Each shoe features novel combinations of computationally-designed 3D-printed PHA uppers, 3D knit textiles from PHA-based yarn, and biomanufactured pigments. Photo: Nicholas Calcott, OXMAN

OXMAN, a design lab whose mission is to create and deliver nature-centric products and environments to its clients and the natural world, has unveiled O° (pronounced O-zero).

It is a biomaterial, digital, and robotic technology platform that powers the production of biobased textiles and wearables that are 100% biodegradable when disposed of, made entirely with organic material and without petrochemicals or glues, and producing no microplastics.

O° removes the complexity inherent in conventional fabrication processes, enabling the creation of consumer products from one material, under one roof, with minimal human intervention — through a nearly zero-waste process. The first product to be created using O° platform is a collection of shoes made entirely of polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHAs), a class of organic material known for its versatility and biodegradability.

“PHAs have long been recognized as a promising alternative to petroleum-based plastics,” said Neri Oxman, CEO and founder of OXMAN.

“We have successfully elevated the potential of PHA through the development of O°, a new technology for the design and fabrication of products that seeks to minimize harm in its conception and nourish the environment in its afterlife. We are thrilled to unveil our first product using this new technology: the O° shoe, which is made using 100% PHA, is 100% biodegradable, and has no petrochemicals or microplastics.”

0% petrochemicals, 0% microplastics, 100% biodegradable

PHAs can be produced by bacteria which consume atmospheric carbon dioxide, methane, and/or food waste, reducing carbon in the environment as they grow. They are biologically recyclable, and 100% biodegradable in ambient conditions. As a result, O° textiles and shoes do not leave behind microplastics when they decompose. O° textiles and shoes are made entirely of PHAs, so when they decompose they become one with the environment, returning to the bacteria from which they originated. However, just like traditional biodegradable materials used for apparel such as cotton, wool, and silk, PHA will not biodegrade while being worn, washed, or stored.

O° shoes embody the versatility of PHAs by incorporating precise designs informed by the kinetics of human motion. Each shoe has a base layer of a knitted upper and outer layers that are printed on the textile to provide specific functionality including reinforcement, cushioning, strength, and pliability. The versatility and automation built into the O° platform enable rapid iterations and an accelerated development process from design to production.

Near-zero-waste production process

A compact robotic system is central to the O° platform: the O° robotic system 3D prints custom PHA blends onto a textile that is 3D knitted on an industrial flatbed machine from a 100% PHA yarn produced through a process of extrusion and melt spinning. By using this knitting and printing technology to create shape and movement, OXMAN has eliminated the cut-and-sew and adhesion processes associated with traditional shoe assembly. The O° technology offers a near zero-waste production process and requires minimal human involvement and intervention, enabling local, low-cost production, minimizing the transport cost and environmental impact of the distant supply chains typical of the shoe industry.

Bio-engineered colours, free of petrochemicals

Many industrial pigments and dyes are sourced from raw materials derived from petro-chemicals which release environmentally damaging chemicals during their production and usage. These dyes and pigments are dependent on a resource-intensive and complex global supply chain for synthesis, processing, and transport. In contrast, bacteria can produce pigments from simple and abundant natural resources. O° uses bacteria not just as a source of material, but also to encode other functional properties such as pigment production to simplify and centralize the manufacturing process.

OXMAN’s O° platform builds on the promise of PHAs by tuning the fabrication process and offering an alternative design and production process that holistically considers a product’s entire lifecycle, from conception to decomposition.

OXMAN is now initiating discussions with potential partners, investors, and brand collaborators to bring the production of O° shoes and textiles to scale and to market.